This year, Sri Lanka travel is being mentioned more and more in the news. “Everyone I Know Is Heading To Sri Lanka” Suitcase Mag says.
“The winter sun island luring back visitors with heritage wildlife and low prices” iNews proclaims.
Tourism in the south of Sri Lanka is booming. But in the north, in areas that were savaged by the 26 year long Sri Lankan Civil War, tourism has been slow. Only in the last few years has a trickle started.
On my recent trip to the country with the Sri Lanka Tourist Board, I had the opportunity to visit Trincomalee in the northeast of the country. This area has always been majority Tamil, although Trinconomalee had a long colonial history, largely due to its impressive natural harbour.
Through the temples, the history, the food and most of all, the people, I discovered this authentic, not-too-touristy yet well facilitated city may just be one of the best places to visit in Sri Lanka.
History of Trincomalee
Trincomalee was an ancient Tamil settlement, with the clifftop Koneswaram Temple, one of the most important temples in Tamil Sri Lanka, being constructed in the 3rd century BC. In an prime example of colonial savagery, this temple was destroyed and pushed into the sea in 1623 when the Portuguese arrived.
Throughout the colonial centuries, Trinco saw Portuguese, Dutch (who built the fort that remains today), French and British. The British were in Trincomalee from 1795 until 1957. In fact, Trincomalee’s natural harbour – it’s deep, safe and was in prime position for ships to stop when travelling between what was then Arabia, Malaya and India – was a key reason why the British wanted to occupy Ceylon (as Sri Lanka was then called) all together.
After the Fall of Singapore in WW2, Trinco was the most important port in the British Asian colonies. In 1942, Japan planned a Pearl Harbour-style attack on the port, but as there was some forewarning, huge devastation was avoided.
The city became part of independent Sri Lanka in 1948, although military forces stayed until 1957. During the Sri Lankan civil war, Trincomalee was hugely affected, being a majority Tamil city. And during a shaky ceasefire, the 2004 boxing day tsunami caused utter devastation.
Trincomalee today
Since the war ended in 2009, Trinco has been rebuilding. More and more accommodation has been springing up, and people are realising how glorious the beaches just outside it are. Plus, its history is well worth learning about!
There’s a quieter pace of life in Trinco, so visitors can enjoy long sunny days on the beach and evenings winding down with a cocktail. It’s well set up for visitors, with plenty of English spoken and reliable internet, so staying connected is easy, whether that means keeping in touch with family or checking the NFL points spread.
Historic and cultural things to do in Trincomalee
Here are the best things to do in Trincomalee if you want to learn about its history and culture!
Kanniya Hot Springs
Sitting around a 15 minute drive from the city, Kanniya Hot Springs are a bathing complex. Spanning over seven wells and reaching up to 42°C, these springs are sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike, although the story is intrinsically connected to a Hindu holy tale. Nowadays, they’re a glorious representation of cultural unity.
Fort Frederick
Originating with the Portuguese in 1623, Fort Frederick as we see it today was built by the Dutch, who then named it. It’s home to Koneswaram Temple. People still live in the fort area nowadays.
Koneswaram Temple
Koneswaram Temple, which was destroyed by the Portuguese was rebuilt in the 1950s. Nowadays, it is a major Hindu pilgrimage site with daily rituals and procession floats. Its colours, architecture and religious atmosphere make it well worth a visit!
Trincomalee War Cemetery
The Trincomalee War Cemetery is home to 365 Commonwealth War graves of those who died in the Second World War. It’s the final resting place of soldiers, military staff and nurses who died during or as a result of the war.
The Harbour
The ocean breeze walkway spans along the harbour, with views out to the water, towards the industrial port.
Experience local life
It’s fun to take a stroll through Trinco! Experience colourful buses, tuk tuk rides and try street food.
Things we didn’t manage due to weather
Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t too kind on the second day of our trip, when we had all the sunny weather activities planned!
Here’s what we could have done (which most people head to Trinco for):
- Boat trip along the coastline: it’s known for unspoiled, little-visited beaches.
- Snorkelling and diving at Pigeon Island: there are reef sharks, turtles and coral. International Diving School Trincomalee is PADI-certified.
- Whale watching: this is seasonal, from March to August.
Where we stayed
We stayed in the lovely Amaranthe Bay Resort & Spa. It’s a modern resort with a gorgeous beachside pool and we had a jacuzzi in our bedroom!
Click here to read more about it.
