Few countries have had to contend with situations like Sri Lanka’s last 40 years.
First came the civil war, a brutal 26 year conflict between the Sri Lankan government and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (otherwise known as “Tamil Tigers”). Of course, the victims in it were innocent civilians – on both sides, but especially the Tamil minority.
In the middle of an uneasy ceasefire, the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami devastated much of the east, south and half of the west coast, with over 30,000 victims – the second-highest in any country affected.
Then war broke out again for three more years.
Post-war, Sri Lanka started to build – until a 2019 terror attack saw it on many country’s “advise against travel” list (it’s worth noting that no such warning has ever been given for European countries that have been victims of attacks).
Then, like the rest of the world, Sri Lanka saw closures due to COVID. After COVID, the country plunged into financial crisis and political issues, only fully improving in 2024.
The fact that, despite these obstacles, tourists have still visited Sri Lanka and the country has continued to welcome visitors with open arms, only serves to demonstrate how many draws this nation has.
Mr Cooray, owner of Jetwing Hotels, told us “British and German tourists, they never gave up on us. Now, the rest of the world is realising what we have to offer. Sri Lanka is safe, welcoming, and we need more people to visit”.
Now, politics have stabilised and harmony between ethnic groups is improving. There’s never been a better time to visit Sri Lanka.
How tourism can help Sri Lanka
“Tourism can help us in many ways” Dhanoushka, our guide told us. “Financially, companies like mine (he works for Blue Lanka tours, the top-rated provider on the island) need tourism to survive. And it helps the country’s GDP too.
It helps us connect with the world as well. For so long we’ve been an insular country. It’s important that we look outwards, meet people from all over the world. This can help Sri Lanka grow”.
Sri Lanka’s been a popular ‘stopping point’ since colonial times – many travellers journeying from Europe to Eastern Asia or Australia might spend anything between a day to a few months in Ceylon, as it was known then.
Over the decades, word spread about its pristine beaches, ancient temples, mouthwatering food, welcoming hospitality and diverse wildlife, and tourism grew.
So over time, tourist-focused businesses popped up – everything from Jetwing Hotels’ brand of 5* luxury sustainable accommodation to Blue Lanka’s tour company to tuk tuk drivers to one-person-run eateries in tourist resorts.
On my last day in the country, I stopped to buy a plaited bracelet from a street vendor. “It’s low season now”, she told me. “I won’t make as many sales for a few months. But we have more tourists than before”. Previously, low season in Sri Lanka has lasted years.
But how do we get there?
I’d travel overland everywhere if I could (and if trains were capable of 1,000 kmph speeds). For me, there’s nothing like settling into a long train or bus journey, eagerly anticipating the world to unfold at ground level.
But sometimes, it’s just not possible. Well, it is, but only the very hardy would complete it (I travelled from Bali to London overland on my own in 2019, and I’m not sure if I could do it again!).
Starting in July, there will be a regular ferry from India to Sri Lanka. So technically, you could overland to India – through a range of turbulent borders and regions – take the train to the south and then ferry across to Sri Lanka. It would take you months.
But for 99.999% of us, that’s not realistic. If that 99.999% decided we didn’t want to fly to Sri Lanka either, thus didn’t go at all, then what would happen to Jetwing Hotels, to Blue Lanka Tours, to the tuk tuk drivers, the bracelet sellers, the restaurant owners?
I strongly believe we should all be avoiding flying when possible, in our own unique situations. I’m currently having a flight-free year in Europe (which is entirely possible for me, but potentially not for someone with small children, or with limited time off work, for example).
But I don’t believe that not flying to places like Sri Lanka is the solution.
There are many facets to sustainable tourism – ecological is certainly one, but using tourism as a force for sustainable development is another.
It’s getting easier to be a sustainable traveller when you’re there
On my recent trip to Sri Lanka, I worked directly with the Sri Lanka Tourist Board, and one of their big ambitions is to build a sustainable tourist model within the country.
Jetwing Hotels
Jetwing are pioneers of this. They run a range of five star properties throughout the island, with stunning pools (one of which was 100m long), deluxe rooms and excellent food. But what makes them stand out is their huge commitment to sustainability. They use offcuts of cinnamon trees to create fuel for their air conditioning (we actually saw this in action at Jetwing Lagoon), they treat water and bottle it in reusable glass, they grow many of their own vegetables and make use of Sri Lanka’s sunshine with solar panels.
At Jetwing Colombo Seven, you can take an electric tuk tuk tour and at Jetwing Lagoon (near Sirigaya), bike rentals are available.
Community tourism
There are plenty of opportunities to get right into local life in Sri Lanka too. The (village name) is a community tourism initiative that takes tourists into a local village for a boat ride and mini cooking class, before a tasty local lunch.
Wildlife preservation
Sri Lanka also excels in wildlife preservation. Increasing areas throughout the country are designated as “no build” zones, and natural corridors attempt to provide safe passages for the 7,000 island-dwelling elephants. “Tourism has helped us protect elephants” Dhanoushka explained. “The economy from tourists visiting wildlife is strong, and we can put that back into our parks. Plus, the tourists use hotels and restaurants around the parks, so everyone sees how important it is to protect our wildlife now”.
He added “but it’s important that we don’t get too busy at the parks. We want to make sure we don’t overcrowd any animals and give them space. That’s why, while Yala National Park is lovely, we also recommend visiting the other parks, like Willapattu” – we were lucky enough to visit and see a leopard and a sloth bear here.
Read my post about how tourism’s helping Sri Lankan elephants here.
Boosting local businesses
The island’s brimming with local businesses – from Jetwing and Blue Lanta (Sri Lanka’s number one rated tour operator) to roadside stalls serving coconuts. Every time you support any, it boosts their business – and the island as a whole.
On the ground, Sri Lanka’s extensive rail network covers much of the country, connecting cities and tourist hotspots without needing to fly internally or drive. A sleeper train even runs from Colombo to Jaffna, a physical bridge of cultural unity between two once-warring communities.
It’s beneficial to avoid flying when possible, especially if you travel as much as I do. But it shouldn’t be at the cost of the benefits tourism can bring to developing countries; especially when what’s developing is a robust, sustainable tourist model. Sri Lanka is safe and open to the world. Let’s enjoy it.
