Everyone kept telling me this was the best ferry in Europe. “It’s basically a cruise,” they said. Some even claimed it beat Silja Line.
Naturally, I booked it. This was Color Magic, sailing overnight from Oslo to Kiel, and at €289, it was the most expensive ferry ticket I’ve ever bought.
I’ve crossed Europe by ferry plenty of times this year.
Brittany Ferries from the UK to Spain, Silja Line from Stockholm to Helsinki, a couple of Viking Line ships. But this one had a reputation to live up to.
With a double bed cabin, spa access, gelato, and dinner in the onboard gourmet restaurant, I went all in to find out whether this was really the best ferry in Europe – or just the most hyped.
What is Color Magic?
Color Magic is one of two identical sister ships operated by Color Line on the Oslo to Kiel route. The journey takes just under 20 hours, departing from central Oslo in the early afternoon and arriving in Kiel the next morning. It’s often described as a “mini cruise” and walking around the ship, that’s exactly what it feels like.
Color Magic is officially the largest ferry in the world by gross tonnage. It carries over 2,600 passengers and has more than 1,000 cabins, plus restaurants, spas, shops, bars, and even a nightclub!
The route is a transport link between Norway and Germany, and surprisingly, some people book the full return trip with only three hours in Kiel.
Boarding in Oslo: what to expect
The Color Line terminal is at Hjortneskaia, about 25 minutes’ walk from Oslo’s city centre. The walk is uphill in places, but taxis drop off right at the door and there were several waiting when I arrived.
I’d seen online that foot passengers could board from 11:00 and that there was some sort of lounge access. In reality, staff told me boarding wouldn’t begin until 13:15 and there was no lounge or early access. The terminal was clean and calm but pretty uneventful. If you arrive early, bring a book or something to do.
Check-in was straightforward. I’d already checked in online and used the mobile boarding pass without issue. No luggage drop needed, you just carry your bags on yourself.
Boarding was done in one go without separate queues. Once on board, lifts and stairs take you straight to your cabin. I went there first, and it was easily the most comfortable ferry cabin I’ve ever had.
Cabin review: the best night’s sleep at sea
I booked the cheapest available option – an interior double cabin with no window. Even so, it felt more like a hotel room than a ferry cabin!
There was plenty of storage, a full-length mirror, a desk, a phone and a TV.
The ensuite was clean and wide, with a powerful shower and the usual all-in-one soap dispenser.
There were six towels, which is probably excessive for one person!
There are higher-end options on board if you want sea views or balconies, but even the basic cabin was peaceful and well-equipped. I slept over nine hours, which never usually happens when I travel!
What’s on board: food, shops, and entertainment
Most of the onboard action is on Deck 7. There’s a long concourse with restaurants, shops, cafes, and bars. You’ll find a full cosmetics store, clothing shops, even LEGO.
Food options include a Scandinavian buffet, a pizza restaurant, a tapas bar, and the Manhattan Gourmet Restaurant where I had dinner. There’s also a burger and sports bar up on Deck 13, a proper cocktail bar, and a pub called The Monkey.
For snacks and coffee, the café on Deck 7 had oat milk and dairy-free gelato. There’s also a 24-hour kiosk with paracetamol, magazines, and late-night snacks.
There’s a family pool called Aqualand, an arcade, and a teen lounge. On the upper decks you’ll find a nightclub, spa, gym and observation lounge with views and live music.
Dining experience: the fancy restaurant on board
I booked dinner at the Manhattan Gourmet Restaurant, which is the ship’s à la carte option. By the time I made the reservation, the only slot left was 5pm, so it’s worth booking early.
There was only one vegetarian main: a green asparagus risotto with crispy leeks, radish and creamy sauce. For a starter, I had a tomato and burrata salad. Portion sizes were generous, and everything was delicious!
I asked for a wine similar to a Sauvignon Blanc and got a good recommendation.
It cost a total of €46 / £53. Not cheap, but not outrageous either.
Considering I was eating a proper meal while sailing down the coast of Norway, it felt worth it!
Spa and wellness centre
After dinner, I booked a 90-minute spa session for 275 NOK (€23). The spa has a warm-lit pool, steam room, sauna, and loungers. I was the only person there for most of my session1
There’s also a full gym with treadmills and weights, plus a bookable golf simulator.
The spa closes at 8:30pm, with last entry around 7:30. It’s worth heading straight there after dinner if you want to fit it in.
Night and morning on board
By the time I got back to my cabin I was ready to crash.
The ferry was just reaching open sea and the wind was howling outside, but I barely felt a thing inside. I slept for over nine hours and didn’t want to get up in the morning!
Eventually I got up, had another shower, and made a beeline for coffee. The café did oat milk cappuccinos and had vegan cookies. I took my drink out on deck for one last look at the views. By then, we were sailing through the fjord into Kiel.
Passengers started queuing to disembark around 9:30, though we weren’t scheduled to dock until 10:30. I packed slowly and soaked up the last bit of cabin comfort. It really was the best night’s sleep I’ve had at sea!
What it all cost
Here’s the full breakdown of what I spent:
| Item | Cost (NOK) | Approx. € | Approx. £ |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ticket + cabin (interior double) | — | €289 | £334 |
| Dinner (starter, main, wine) | 552 | €46 | £53 |
| Spa access (90 mins) | 275 | €23 | £20 |
| Gelato + coffee | ~100 | €8 | £7 |
| Total | — | €418 | £363 |
You could definitely spend less by skipping the restaurant and spa, or bringing your own snacks. But the whole point of this trip was to see if the hype was justified – and for me, it was.
Arrival in Kiel and onwards
The Color Line terminal in Kiel is next to the central train station, so onward travel is easy. I walked across a raised footbridge and caught a train to Hamburg.
Make sure you keep your boarding pass. You’ll need it to exit the terminal.
What do you think?
Would you spend over €400 on a ferry trip like this? Have you sailed on Color Magic or Color Fantasy before? Let me know over on YouTube.
You can book this ferry on the Color Line website.
